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In baking circles, it has all-round attractiveness (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

bagel

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'in' is the definition.
Although both the answer and definition are singular nouns, I can't see how one could define the other.

I don't understand the remainder of the clue.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for bagel that I've seen before include "Ring-shaped bread product" , "Doughnut-shaped bread roll" , "Hard doughnut-shaped roll" , "Jewish baked roll" , "It's edible" .)

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