Crossword Genius

Red or white wine: red is odd, initially, certainly from Riesling grower? (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

rioja

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'red' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I don't understand how the remainder of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for rioja that I've seen before include "Open space (ancient Greek)" , "Spanish wine type" , "Spanish drink" , "it comes from grapevine" , "Dry red wine from Spain" .)

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