Crossword Genius

A crust to eat — old woman digests it, on reflection (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

gratin

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'a crust' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I cannot understand how the remainder of the clue works.

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(Other definitions for gratin that I've seen before include "Au . . . . . . - cooked with a crust of melted cheese" , "'Au ..., with a cheesy topping (6)'" , "Cooked covered in grated cheese or breadcrumbs" , "Grated cheese or breadcrumbs on a dish" , "Au . . . . . ., cooked with a covering of cheese" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.
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