A feature of grain (3)

I believe the answer is:

ear

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'a feature' is the definition.
(I've seen this in other clues)

I don't understand the remainder of the clue.

(Other definitions for ear that I've seen before include "Musical appreciation" , "Ability to recognise sounds" , "Seed-bearing part of corn" , "'Give every man thine ..., but few thy voice' (Hamlet)" , "It's used in hearing" .)

I've seen this clue in The Globe and Mail.

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