A shade better than the others (4)

I believe the answer is:

plum

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'a shade' is the definition.
(I know that plum is a shade)

I don't understand how the remainder of the clue works.

(Other definitions for plum that I've seen before include "Reddish-purple fruit" , "Lump of fruit" , "Purple fruit" , "Fruit tree - of especial value?" , "Pudding fruit" .)

I've seen this clue in The Globe and Mail and The Irish News.

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