A small cafe, originally one which allowed smoking (9)
I believe the answer is:
estaminet
'a small cafe' is the definition.
(I've seen this in another clue)
I can't explain the remainder of the clue.
Can you help me to learn more?
(Other definitions for estaminet that I've seen before include "French restaurant" , "bistro" , "provides food and drink" , "Neat items (anag) - small bar or cafe" , "eatery" .)