A way one takes wine (4)
I believe the answer is:
asti
'wine' is the definition.
(Italian wine)
'a way one' is the wordplay.
'way' becomes 'st' (abbreviation for street).
'one' becomes 'i' (Roman numeral).
'a'+'st'+'i'='ASTI'
'takes' acts as a link.
(Other definitions for asti that I've seen before include "Italian wine - (then change a letter for ...)" , "Italian white wine" , "Sparkling wine named after an Italian Piedmont town" , "Bubbly wine" , "Capital of a north-west Italian province, known for its sparking wine" .)