A well-known name in textile (5)

I believe the answer is:

serge

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'textile' is the definition.
(serge is a kind of textile)

I cannot understand how the remainder of the clue works.

(Other definitions for serge that I've seen before include "Material to suit" , "Stuff" , "Frenchman" , "Twilled fabric; name" , "A twill fabric" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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