Crossword Genius

An informal drink (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

vino

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'drink' is the definition.
(vino is a kind of drink)

I can't explain the rest of the clue.

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(Other definitions for vino that I've seen before include "Wine, colloquially" , "Italian wine - any brand" , "Exotic wine" , "Cheap wine" , "Wine (slang)" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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