Article nearly all about pastry (6)

I believe the answer is:

eclair

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'pastry' is the definition.
(I know that eclair is a type of cream puff)

I don't understand how the remainder of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for eclair that I've seen before include "Long cream puff" , "Lacier type of confection" , "A long thin cake with chocolate covering" , "Finger-shaped cake with cream and chocolate" , "Chocolate-topped, cream-filled cake" .)

I've seen this clue in The Globe and Mail.

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