As grown in country estates? (3)

I believe the answer is:

rye

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'as grown' is the definition.
The answer and definition are not the same part of speech.

'in country estates?' is the wordplay.
'in' says the answer is hidden in the clue.
'RYE' can be found hidden inside 'country estates'.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for rye that I've seen before include "Grass related to wheat" , "place in East Sussex" , "Whiskey (US)" , "Burns's body came through" , "American whisky" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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