Crossword Genius

As served in the late afternoon? (3)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

tea

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'as' is the definition.
Although both the answer and definition are singular nouns, I can't see how one could define the other.

'in the late afternoon?' is the wordplay.
'in' indicates the answer is hidden within the clue.
'TEA' can be found hidden inside 'late afternoon'.

'served' is the link.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for tea that I've seen before include "A light meal - eat up" , "TREE" , "Light afternoon meal" , "Afternoon meal; drink" , "Strangely, ate this drink" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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