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As yet ham-fisted starter in the bakery (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

yeast

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'the bakery' is the definition.
Although both the answer and definition are singular nouns, I cannot understand how they can define each other.

'as yet ham-fisted starter' is the wordplay.
'as yet' can be anagrammed to 'YEAST'.
But, I'm not sure how the anagram is indicated.

'in' acts as a link.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for yeast that I've seen before include "Fungus used to ferment sugar" , "lifting agent" , "What makes bread rise" , "Baker's ingredient" , "Agent for making bread" .)

I've seen this clue in the Sydney Morning Herald.
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