Backhander doesn’t include British cheese (4)

I believe the answer is:

brie

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'cheese' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I don't understand the remainder of the clue.

(Other definitions for brie that I've seen before include "French produce" , "Soft and creamy mild white cheese" , "Kind of soft cheese" , "dairy product" , "Prov. squalid place" .)

I've seen this clue in The Mirror.

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