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Barge's cargo took less delicacy along the Loire (8)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

escargot

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'loire' is the definition.
Although both the answer and definition are singular nouns, I cannot see how one could define the other.

'barge's cargo took less delicacy along' is the wordplay.
'ESCARGOT' is hidden within the letters.
However, I am unsure how this is indicated.

'the' acts as a link.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for escargot that I've seen before include "A dish of cooked land snails" , "An edible snail from France" , "Cart goes carrying edible French snail" , "Got scare from edible French snail" , "French delicacy" .)

I've seen this clue in the Sydney Morning Herald.
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