Beef perhaps because side switched ends (4)

I believe the answer is:

meat

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'beef perhaps' is the definition.
(I know that beef is a type of meat)

I cannot understand how the remainder of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for meat that I've seen before include "17 [ESSENCE]" , "Ham, pork, chicken etc" , "Beef, chicken, pork etc" , "Edible flesh" , "grub, say" .)

I've seen this clue in The Irish Times.

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