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Best, despite possible lack of ultimate fitness (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

finest

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'best' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I cannot understand how the rest of the clue works.

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(Other definitions for finest that I've seen before include "Infest with the best" , "Most splendid" , "Superior in quality" , "Most exquisite" , "Of the highest grade" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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