Botham almost making complaint (4)

I believe the answer is:

beef

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'complaint' is the definition.
(beef can mean a complaint or objection)

I cannot understand how the rest of the clue works.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for beef that I've seen before include "Muscle; meat; grievance" , "Brawn; complaint" , "Small errand" , "gripe" , "Type of meat" .)

I've seen this clue in The Sun.

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