Crossword Genius

Bothering to swallow what's in best wine (8)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

riesling

'wine' is the definition.
(Riesling is an example)

'bothering to swallow what's in best' is the wordplay.
'bothering' becomes 'riling' ('rile' can be a synonym of 'bother').
'to swallow' is an insertion indicator.
'what's in' says to take the centre.
The middle letters of 'best' are 'es'.
'riling' going around 'es' is 'RIESLING'.

(Other definitions for riesling that I've seen before include "Aromatic white wine from the Rhine valley" , "Dry white wine (German)" , "Sir Ingle makes wine from this grape" , "Fragrant white wine from the Rhine valley or from California" , "Strange wine for Sir Ingle" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.
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