Bread and water in restaurant (9)

I believe the answer is:

brasserie

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'in restaurant' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I don't understand how the rest of the clue works.

(Other definitions for brasserie that I've seen before include "Small restaurant serving alcohol as well as food" , "Simple restaurant" , "Where to eat" , "eating place" , "eatery" .)

I've seen this clue in The Telegraph.

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