Crossword Genius

Brown songbird raises cuckoo inside middle of reserve (9)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

chocolate

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'brown' is the definition.
(chocolate is a kind of brown)

I can't explain the remainder of the clue.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for chocolate that I've seen before include "Delicious food of roasted ground cacao beans" , "The tasty treat turns out to be a cool cheat" , "Deep brown colour" , "Coca hotel is a treat" , "The tasty substance could be a cool cheat 99)" .)

I've seen this clue in The Independent.
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