Crossword Genius

Certainly in drink but restrained (8)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

measured

'restrained' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

'certainly in drink' is the wordplay.
'certainly' becomes 'sure' (synonyms).
'in' indicates putting letters inside.
'drink' becomes 'mead' (mead is a kind of drink).
'sure' inserted inside 'mead' is 'MEASURED'.

'but' acts as a link.

(Other definitions for measured that I've seen before include "Sized; carefully chosen" , "Unhurried and with care and dignity" , "Calculated, quantified" , "Stately" , "Sober" .)

I've seen this clue in The Globe and Mail.
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