Changing ends of meandering route, one wants good fare (7)
I believe the answer is:
gourmet
'one wants good fare' is the definition.
(fare can mean food)
'changing ends of meandering route' is the wordplay.
'changing' indicates an anagram.
'ends of' says to hollow out the word (remove centre letters).
'meandering' with its middle taken out is 'mg'.
'mg'+'route'='mgroute'
'mgroute' is an anagram of 'GOURMET'.
(Other definitions for gourmet that I've seen before include "One devoted to the refined enjoyment of food and drink" , "One has expert knowledge of food and wine" , "Knowledgeable eater" , "Epicure" , "Bon vivant" .)