Crossword Genius

___ climbing a tree (Sichuan noodle dish) (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

ants

(Other definitions for ants that I've seen before include "Tiny insects that live in colonies" , "Inhabitants of a formicary" , "Soldiers" , "Hard workers" , "Small social insects" .)

I've seen this clue in The New York Times.
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