Complain about the food? (4)

I believe the answer is:

beef

I believe this clue is a double definition.

'complain' is the first definition.
(beefing is a kind of complaining)

'the food?' is the second definition.
(beef is a kind of food)

'about' is the link.

(Other definitions for beef that I've seen before include "Small errand" , "Grumble - muscle" , "Meat of the cow" , "Complaint; muscle" , "Argument" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

Want a hint initially instead of a full solution? Install my app