Complaining about a new variety of truffle (7)

I believe the answer is:

fretful

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'complaining' is the definition.
(similar in meaning)

'of truffle' is the wordplay.
'of' indicates an anagram (the answer comes from or \'of\' the letters).
'truffle' anagrammed gives 'FRETFUL'.

'about a new variety' is the link.
This may not be correct. Some or all of it may be part of another bit of the clue.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for fretful that I've seen before include "Peevish" , "Distressed" , "Nervous and unable to relax" , "on edge" , "Anxious" .)

I've seen this clue in The Globe and Mail.

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