Crossword Genius

Cook without a root (4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

stem

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'root' is the definition.
(thesaurus)

I cannot understand how the remainder of the clue works.

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(Other definitions for stem that I've seen before include "section of pipe" , "Ski turn and plant support" , "Originate (from)" , "supporter of tobacco?" , "Supporting structure" .)

I've seen this clue in The Telegraph.
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