Cookers, perhaps, or stairs (6)

I believe the answer is:

apples

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'stairs' is the definition.
Although both the answer and definition are plural nouns, I can't see how one could define the other.

I can't explain the remainder of the clue.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for apples that I've seen before include ""____, cherries, hops and women"" , "Russets, pippins etc" , "Crisp fruits" , "Eg, russets, pippins" , "Loud sharp cry" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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