Counter had fine cheese (4)
I believe the answer is:
feta
'cheese' is the definition.
(type of cheese)
'counter had fine' is the wordplay.
'counter' shows that the letters should be reversed in order (counter can mean in the opposite direction).
'had' becomes 'ate' (e.g. I had an ice cream).
'fine' becomes 'f' (abbreviation e.g. condition of old coins, books).
'ate'+'f'='atef'
'atef' in reverse letter order is 'FETA'.
(Other definitions for feta that I've seen before include "Salty goat or sheep milk cheese" , "A ewe's, goat's milk cheese" , "Greek dairy product" , "White and salty goat or sheep cheese" , "Soft Greek cheese" .)