Crossword Genius

Crispy biscuit — or “gatea”? (9)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

shortcake

'crispy biscuit' is the definition.
(shortcakes are crispy biscuit desserts)

'or gatea?' is the wordplay.
I cannot quite understand how this works, but
'or' is within the answer.
This may be the basis of the clue (or it may be nonsense).

(Other definitions for shortcake that I've seen before include "Crisp, rich, crumbly, buttery biscuit" , "Dessert from America" , "Rate shock (anag)" , "Rich biscuit; American dessert" , "pastry?" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.
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