Critically review a hotel in church style (7)

I believe the answer is:

panache

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'style' is the definition.
(I know that style can be written as panache)

'critically review a hotel in church' is the wordplay.
'critically review' becomes 'pan' (I can't justify this - if you can you should give a lot more credence to this answer).
'hotel' becomes 'h' (phonetic alphabet: alpha, bravo, charlie etc.).
'in' means one lot of letters goes inside another.
'church' becomes 'CE' (abbreviation for Church of England).
'h' put inside 'ce' is 'che'.
'pan'+'a'+'che'='PANACHE'

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for panache that I've seen before include "A confident stylish manner" , "Style, elan" , "Swagger; theatricality" , "Swagger, grand manner" , "Dash and verve" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.

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