Criticise bar's food (7)
I believe the answer is:
pancake
'food' is the definition.
(pancake is a kind of food)
'criticise bar's' is the wordplay.
'criticise' becomes 'pan' (informal term meaning to criticise heavily).
'bar' becomes 'cake' (synonyms).
'pan'+'cake'='PANCAKE'
(Other definitions for pancake that I've seen before include "F" , "Shrove Tuesday food for flippers" , "Thin round cake eaten on Shrove Tuesday" , "Theatrical make-up; fried batter" , "Traditional fare on Shrove Tuesday" .)