Crossword Genius

Criticises cooks (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

roasts

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This could be a double definition.

'criticises' is the first definition.
Although both the answer and definition are verbs in their -s form, I don't understand how they can define each other.

'cooks' is the second definition.
(roasting is a kind of cooking)

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for roasts that I've seen before include "Has a go at" , "traditional Sunday food" , "Cooks meat in oven" , "Cooks in dry heat" , "gets very hot" .)

I've seen this clue in The Mirror.
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