Damage and impair variable flavour of ale (8)

I believe the answer is:
costmary
'ale' is the definition.
The answer and definition can be both things that one consumes for nourishment as well as being singular nouns.
Perhaps there's an association between them I don't understand?
I don't understand the remainder of the clue.
Can you help me to learn more?
(Other definitions for costmary that I've seen before include "Aromatic plant" , "Herb" .)
