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Despite that withered appearance, she’s sweet (7)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

sultana

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'sweet' is the definition.
The definition and answer can be both things that one consumes for nourishment as well as being singular nouns.
Maybe you can see an association between them that I don't see?

'despite that withered appearance she's' is the wordplay.
I cannot quite understand how this works, but
'she' could be 'tana' and 'tana' is found in the answer.
This explanation may well be incorrect...

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for sultana that I've seen before include "Dry seedless grape" , "sovereign's woman" , "Dried pale yellow seedless grape" , "Pale seedless raisin" , "Muslim ruler's wife perhaps" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.
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