Crossword Genius

Diarist’s criticism of a bottle of plonk? (6)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

nobody

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'diarist's' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I don't understand the remainder of the clue.

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(Other definitions for nobody that I've seen before include "Insignificant person" , "Eg Pooter" , "Pooter as a diarist" , "Not a single person" , "not a VIP" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.
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