Difficulty making French bread (4)

I believe the answer is:

pain

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'french bread' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I don't understand the rest of the clue.

(Other definitions for pain that I've seen before include "French bread?" , "Sensation of hurt" , "Physical hurt" , "great discomfort" , "can cause discomfort" .)

I've seen this clue in The Irish Times.

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