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Dish not for vegans? Criticise and grumble (5,4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

roast beef

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'dish' is the definition.
(I know that roast beef is a dish)

'criticise and grumble' is the wordplay.
'criticise' becomes 'roast' (I've seen this before).
'and' means one lot of letters go next to another.
'grumble' becomes 'beef' (both can mean to complain).
'roast'+'beef'='ROAST-BEEF'

'not for vegans?' is the link.
This may not be correct. Some or all of it may belong to another bit of the clue.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for roast beef that I've seen before include "traditional meal" , "Typically 7 down dish" , "Traditional English dish" , "Typical English dish" , "meat dish" .)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.
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