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Dished up dollop of gelato to all (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

total

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'all' is the definition.
(thesaurus)

'dished up dollop of gelato to' is the wordplay.
'TOTAL' is hidden backwards in amongst the letters.
However, I'm uncertain how the hidden word is indicated.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for total that I've seen before include "Everything added together" , "Not qualified" , "final answer" , "Completely destroy" , "Whole amount" .)

I've seen this clue in The Independent.
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