Dress fold (5)
I believe the answer is:
pleat
'dress fold' is the definition.
(I've seen this in another clue)
This is the entire clue.
(Other definitions for pleat that I've seen before include "Gather" , "Type of fold in fabric" , "Fold in a skirt" , "Flat fold of cloth" , "Fold pressed or stitched into cloth" .)