Eating-place’s lack of wine, excluding Riesling at first (7)

'eating-place's' is the definition.
(noshery can informally mean an eatery)

'lack of wine excluding riesling at first' is the wordplay.
I cannot really understand how this works, but
'of' could be 'o' and 'o' is found in the answer.
'at' could be 'her' (I've seen this in other clues) and 'her' is found within the answer.
This explanation may well be incorrect...