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Endless slum in country almost making Italian scoff (9)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

spaghetti

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'italian scoff' is the definition.
(I know that pasta are Italian)

I can't explain the rest of the clue.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for spaghetti that I've seen before include "Long thin pasta" , "Sort of junction" , "Past eight (anag.)" , "Strange tight peas for the Italian dish" , "stringy food" .)

I've seen this clue in The Guardian.
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