Crossword Genius

Excellent tart cooked with fries (5-4)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

first-rate

'excellent' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

'tart cooked with fries' is the wordplay.
'cooked with' indicates an anagram (letters cooked into a new form).
'tart' with its letters anagrammed with 'fries' makes 'FIRST-RATE'.

(Other definitions for first-rate that I've seen before include "Prime" , "Top-class, excellent" , "Stir after to be really excellent" , "Start fire to be really excellent" , "Top-notch, excellent" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.
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