Express hesitation as you stitch the edge (3)

I believe the answer is:

hem

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'express hesitation' is the definition.
(I've seen this before)

I don't understand the remainder of the clue.

(Other definitions for hem that I've seen before include "Express hesitation" , "Double-backed cloth border" , "Double-backed edge" , "Stitched edge of garment" , "Sewn border" .)

I've seen this clue in The Irish Independent.

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