Feature of Vietnamese mountain cooking? (4)

I believe the answer is:

etna

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'feature of vietnamese mountain cooking?' is the definition.
'etna' can be an answer for 'feature' (I have seen 'Feature of Sicily' mean 'etna' so perhaps 'feature' could also mean 'etna'). I am not sure about the 'of vietnamese mountain cooking?' bit.

'feature of vietnamese mountain' is the wordplay.
'feature of' indicates a hidden word.
'ETNA' is hidden within 'vietnamese mountain'.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for etna that I've seen before include "Highest peak in Italy south of the Alps" , "It could erupt" , "Highest active volcano in Europe" , "Dangerous peak" , "It can be scorching" .)

I've seen this clue in The Times.

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