Crossword Genius

Food that may be listed anywhere except the start of the dictionary? (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

pasta

'food' is the definition.
(pasta is a kind of food)

I cannot understand how the rest of the clue works.

(Other definitions for pasta that I've seen before include "Italian cooking staple" , "dish from Italy" , "dish high in carbohydrates" , "dish of food" , "Rigatoni, tortellini etc" .)

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