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Food that might be hot or cold from the sea (5)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

balti

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'food that might be hot' is the definition.
(type of curry)

I don't understand how the rest of the clue works.

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(Other definitions for balti that I've seen before include "Spicy Indian dish served in a metal pot" , "One-pot curry" , "Pakistani curry dish, originating perhaps in 1970s' Birmingham" , "Style of curry" , "Indian cuisine cooked in two-handled dish" .)

I've seen this clue in The Independent.
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