French ones are cooked with special fires (5)

I believe the answer is:

fries

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'french ones are cooked' is the definition.
I can't tell whether this defines the answer.

'special fires' is the wordplay.
'special' is an anagram indicator.
'fires' anagrammed gives 'FRIES'.

'with' is the link.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for fries that I've seen before include "food for grazing?" , "Cooks; chips (Amer.)" , "Cooks in fat" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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