French ones are tasteful (5)

I believe the answer is:

fries

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'french ones' is the definition.
Although both the answer and definition are plural nouns, I don't see how they can define each other.

I don't understand the rest of the clue.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for fries that I've seen before include "food for grazing?" , "Cooks; chips (Amer.)" , "Cooks in fat" .)

I've seen this clue in the Evening Standard.

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