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Gent with brown headgear moving up in the City (9)

Ross

I believe the answer is:

manhattan

I'm a little stuck... Click here to teach me more about this clue!

'the city' is the definition.
The definition and answer can be both locations as well as being singular nouns.
Perhaps there's an association between them I don't understand?

'gent with brown headgear moving up' is the wordplay.
I cannot really understand how this works, but
'gent' could be 'tan' and 'tan' is present in the answer.
'headgear' could be 'hat' (hat is a kind of headgear) and 'hat' is found in the answer.
The remaining letters 'man' is a valid word which might be clued in a way I don't understand.
This may be the basis of clue (or it may be nonsense).

'in' acts as a link.

Can you help me to learn more?

(Other definitions for manhattan that I've seen before include "Vermouth and whisky cocktail - New York borough" , "Island of New York - cocktail" , "Vermouth and whiskey, with a dash of bitters" , "It blended with spirit" , "Cocktail consisting of whisky, vermouth and bitters" .)

I've seen this clue in The Hindu.
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